A blog for fatties.

For people who live to eat--not eat to live.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

Alizée does burger night


Does the idea of a gourmet burger make you salivate? If you answered yes, then you'll be even more excited by the thought of a 1/2 priced gourmet burger. Alizée's chef, Christian deLutis (formerly of Corks and The Wine Market) will prepare gourmet burgers on the last Sunday night of each month. That means this Sunday! You can check out this weekend's preparation as well as make reservations via their website.

Post-blizzard bbq


I've got a lot of things going on, so a short post this will be. First, I cannot stress enough that your best friend in the kitchen is a dutch oven. I hadn't truly experienced life until I bought one of these for my mother, and it somehow, conveniently made its way into my kitchen. Sneaky, sneaky.
There are many different brands of dutch ovens and they come in different colors, shapes and sizes. In purchasing a dutch oven, one name reigns supreme and that's Le Creuset. Le Creuset is enameled, cast iron cookware. They have various products ranging from saucepans to grill pans and truthfully, I could dedicate this entire blog to them, but I promised you barbecue and so barbecue you shall have. Just know, that any Le Creuset piece is an investment (translates to EXPENSIVE). Occasionally places like BJ's or Costco will have Le Creuset pieces for sale. At $180 I was lucky to pick up a Le Creuset oval 6 3/4 quart French oven at BJ's wholesale. A steal! This piece easily runs $240-$365 at most retailers. This particular oven is just large enough to fit a whole pork picnic shoulder or Boston butt if you prefer.

About your barbecue...the dry rub is the most important part of the process. You can purchase a pre-mixed rub or make your own. I like to make my own using a mixture of both fresh and dried herbs. You can omit the cayenne if you don't like your barbecue spicy, but cayenne pepper is an amazing source of vitamins and antioxidants and should be incorporated into your diet, as much as you can tolerate.

Dry Rub:

1 tbsp Coleman's dry mustard
2 tbsps Brown sugar (Domino brand of course)
1 tsp ground sage
1 tbsp fresh minced thyme
1 tbsp garlic powder
1 tsp cayenne pepper (optional)
1 tbsp paprika
2 tbsp kosher salt

1 5-7 lb pork picnic shoulder or Boston butt
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

Mix dry ingredients and rub all over your pork. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour. You may leave it refrigerated overnight, if you'd like. Preheat over to 250 degrees. Pour 1/2 cup of apple cider vinegar into the dutch oven. Place pork in dutch oven and cover with aluminum foil before replacing the lid. Roast for at least 6 hours. Depending on the strength of your oven this could take more time. The roast is done when it is visibly falling apart, or if it has reached an internal temperature of 170 degrees with a meat thermometer. Let the roast sit at least ten minutes before serving.

Note: If you do not have a dutch oven, a conventional roaster will do, but the end result will not be nearly as good. Try to refrain from checking your roast--you don't want too much moisture to escape. During the last hour of cooking, you may prepare a homemade barbecue sauce for your pork. This is the recipe I use:

3/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup French's yellow mustard
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 tsp cayenne pepper
garlic salt to taste

serves 12

While pulled pork is normally served on a bun, I leave this as an option as some of us I'm sure, don't need the added calories.

Side suggestions: Either potato salad or coleslaw (I'll post a great recipe for potato salad soon) Braised kale is a fantastic vegetable accompaniment to pulled pork barbecue.

Wine pairing: An Alsacien Reisling, Pinot Blanc or Gewurtztraminer is a classic pairing with pork barbecue. Domaine Lucien Albrecht makes all three of these--all moderately priced. You can find them at Corridor Wine & Spirits. As a tip, always--always pair spicy with sweet.




Thursday, February 25, 2010

Currently reading:


THE MAN WHO ATE EVERYTHING by Jeffrey Steingarten. I've barely gotten through the first couple of chapters and I had to stop and let you know how entertaining this book is. I highly recommend it to anyone who eats. I suppose that means everyone. Steingarten is clever, witty and a fantastic storyteller. A Harvard educated lawyer, he has been the food critic for Vogue Magazine for over twenty years. You may have noticed him as a guest judge on Iron Chef America and The Next Iron Chef. Extremely opinionated, he is hard to ignore.

A little bird told me...


So I've got the scoop on what's happening with an famous, old institution in the Baltimore community. My source spoke with an owner a few weeks back and filled me in on the fantastic news. Badly damaged by fire last year, Suburban House had closed its doors indefinitely. Rumors ran rampant that perhaps the beloved deli/restaurant would not reopen. Luckily, such rumors were false--as rumors often are. Thankfully, look for Suburban House to reopen sometime in April. Even better still, there might be two locations.

Suburban House is slated to relocate to Pomona Square on Reisterstown Road, just off the beltway. It will replace Fuddrucker's, which has been plagued with bad luck during this recent economic crisis. Too bad for Fuddrucker's. I never tried their burgers, but heard I wasn't missing much. In any case, this will be a great location for Suburban House to reopen, as (in my humble opinion) they needed a little refreshing of decor.

For those of you who haven't visited, Suburban House is an authentic Jewish kosher deli/restaurant. They also cater various events as well. The menu is extensive and it is often difficult to make a decision as to what to order. That's okay, the prices are so reasonable, you can afford to come back to Suburban House every day of the week if you'd like. Famous for their oversized sandwiches, one can order a sandwich called, "The Mayven" (chopped liver, corned beef, sweitzer, Bermuda onion, and dressing). A personal favorite of mine. Colossal sandwiches like "The Mayven," easily comprise your entire daily recommended caloric intake. Be prepared for a doggie bag or two. Their whitefish salad is unparalleled, and no visit is complete without a side order of potato pancakes, served with sour cream and apple sauce. Service is casual and friendly, and your coffee cup stays full and fresh. An added treat, you can practice your Yiddish with their cute place mats which are great conversational material. Suburban House will be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

I'm sure a lot of you are anxious for this restaurant to open up. Their website is still up, with full menu, if you'd like further temptation. The original location may reopen as well, making it an option to the Pomona Square restaurant. As I recall, Suburban House filled up quickly, so two locations might not be a bad idea. I suppose now all we have to do is wait.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Lobster for the price of a happy meal?


I'm going to let you in on a little secret. I get a nagging itch for lobster every now and then. Unfortunately, the mark-up price per pound on lobster in the restaurant biz is something ridiculous. The price of lobster per pound in your local supermarket is probably between 11-15 dollars. That is of course, unless you are blessed enough to live in Maine. Lucky bastards. Now, I haven't been to Maine in years, but I've heard the tales of cracking and devouring bushels of lobster (as we Marylanders do with crabs) some 40 years ago, for--get this--quarters. Every time I hear that story, my face turns this lovely shade of pale green. Sorry guys, we're not going to eat lobster for quarters. I doubt that will ever happen again. You can however, have lobster for the price of a happy meal. I'm not kidding. Timing is everything.

My mother steamed lobster for us on New Years for as long as I can remember. We anxiously ate them, along with our petite filet mignons, baked potatoes and haricots verts. I looked forward to this dinner all year long as a child. I recently learned that it is bad luck to eat lobster on New Year's. That explains EVERYTHING. Apparently, the reason has everything to do with symbolism. Lobsters move backwards along the bottom of the ocean floor. It makes sense then, that it would be back luck to consume something that moves backwards when we are moving forward with the new year. Okay, end of tradition.

I happened to be shopping at Giant on January 2nd of this year. As I walked by the seafood section, I felt like someone was watching me. I was wrong. It was "some-thing." Actually, they were a lot of "some-things." Before my eyes, stacked on top of one another like bunk-mates, were package upon package of plastic-wrapped, steamed lobsters. What was the cause of this mass assassination? I couldn't hold back. I asked the seafood clerk what the deal was. His answer was simple. Grocery stores order large quantities of lobster for holidays. Whatever doesn't sell, gets marked down for a quick sale.

You want a five dollar lobster? Now you know how and when to get one. For all your other seafood needs at amazing prices, I suggest Cameron's Seafood.

Pretzel baguettes start a frenzy!



My friend Adam reminded me this morning of something basic that most people I know love more than anything--pretzel rolls. Well, in case you hadn't noticed, Giant Food stores have begun selling freshly baked, pretzel BAGUETTES. Here's the catch, in order to purchase one of these prized baguettes you have to be up EARLY. My father, a closet pretzel baguette addict, gets up at a ridiculous hour on weekends just to pick up one of these prized batons at the Owen Brown Giant in Columbia. I'm lying. He picks up two. If you make it out there only to find that they have sold out of pretzel baguettes, it is probably his fault. Send him hate mail.

I just wanted to relay this wonderful news to those of you who have yet to try one. Slice a piece off, heat it and squirt a little mustard on it. Make a ham sandwich with a little swiss, sauerkraut and some spicy brown mustard. Any way you like your pretzels, you are sure to enjoy these pretzel baguettes. I must now go into hiding before my father realizes I've disclosed his secret. I'm doing this for your own good, Sir Alec!

kapow sock bam whack biff...Zipang!


Though it may sound like an onomatopoeic sound effect, straight out of an episode of the 1960's Batman series, you might be surprised to learn that Zipang is Japan's answer to Champagne. A sparkling Sake, Zipang is a naturally carbonated beverage with a relatively low alcohol content at 7%. I first tasted this pleasantly refreshing drink at Cha Ya Cafe in Columbia, Maryland. It has a hint of sweetness at first taste, but maintains a certain crispness and is dry on the finish. Sushi and champagne are a natural pairing, but what better combination can there be than sparkling sake and sushi?

The drink paired exceptionally well with my assorted sashimi and left me thirsting for more. Despite the fact that my lunch went way over budget (and it wasn't because of the sake) Cha Ya Cafe will see me happily return to enjoy yet another glass of Zipang. Sadly, I've come up empty-handed in my search for Zipang in liquor stores. I suppose there isn't enough of a demand for it just yet. Oh, if you happen to go to Cha Ya for lunch and aren't a sushi connoisseur, go on a Wednesday and ask for their mango chicken special. It is fantastic! The vegetables are so perfectly crisp! They are also known to serve great Thai food. If you haven't yet had your fill of mango, share a mango with sticky coconut rice for dessert with your guest. Plan to take the rest of the day off.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Marrow: poor man's foie gras


I realize that we are still in the middle of an economic crisis, and some of us just don't have the extra change to shell out on a nice, succulent lobe of duck liver. I have just the solution to ease your woes. Ladies and gentlemen, it really doesn't get any simpler than this.




Step 1: get off of your butt and take a hike to your local supermarket (you're going to need the exercise to work off the calories).

Step 2: March back to the meat department and pick out a nice package of beef marrow bones (the longer the better).

Step 3: pick up a bunch of green onion and a large baguette

Step 4: pay for your groceries and hurry home. You are about to eat possibly the best thing you have ever tasted.

There are other recipes for roasted bone marrow on the internet, but I find the simpler, the better. This is especially good for those of you who are short on time but would like to indulge in something extra delicious. For those of you who are cringing at the thought of eating bone marrow, you have no idea what you are missing. I now know exactly what Thoreau was referring to in Walden, when he wrote about, "...suck(ing) the marrow out of life."

The bright side...Bone marrow is highly nutritious and contains several vital nutrients which are beneficial for growth and development. It is high in protein, vitamin B, calcium, magnesium and zinc. The down side...Bone marrow should be a treat savored occasionally. Though rich in vitamin content, it is also is high in fat content and may not be suitable for those with high cholesterol. I like my marrow with sliced green onion, but a common serving suggestion is a parsley salad. You can take your pick. Also, if you have access to a breadmaker, I highly recommend baking your own bread. If not, a "take and bake" baguette from your grocer will do. This snack is cheaper than anything you can buy and very quickly prepared.

12 beef marrow bones (long ones work better--about 3 inches each)
1/2 bunch green onion (diced)
freshly ground black pepper and coarse ground sea salt (to taste)
one large baguette

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place marrow bones in an iron skillet or foil-lined casserole dish. Roast for approximately 30 minutes. Depending on the strength of your oven, the cooking time could be slightly more or less. The marrow should be slightly separating from the bone. Remove from heat and place your baguette in the oven and remove when just golden brown, approximately 10 minutes. Slice baguette and spread marrow on the slice of bread. Season with salt and pepper. Top with green onion. Prepare yourself for ultimate bliss.

serves 4 as an appetizer


Suggested wine pairing: 2006 Napa Cellars Zinfandel or if you are on a strict budget, Rosenblum Zinfandel Vintner's Cuvee XXXI

It is worth noting that these bones are virtually indestructible without the use of high tech machinery and are thus suitable as a treat for your four-legged friends. To avoid a mess, I suggest rewarding your dog outdoors.



Monday, February 22, 2010

Wanna grapple?


No silly! Not like that! I'm not a wrestler. What I mean is Grapple® reserve brand apples. Pronounced "grape-l," Grapple® apples are exactly what you may already suspect--apples infused with an artificial grape flavor. And boy do they ever taste like a grape soda-pop. I first noticed this interesting product at Wegman's in Hunt Valley. Intrigued by the claim that the apples tasted like concord grapes, I bought a package and brought them home. It took me a day or so to get up the nerve to try one. They really do smell like the most potent, artificial grape imaginable. What was most surprising to me though, at first bite, was the texture of the apple. It was the crispest, freshest apple that I'd ever sank my teeth into. In fact, if it weren't for the fact that it tasted like Grape Crush, I'd have to say it was the best apple I'd ever eaten.

I don't know. There's something so weird to me about making one fruit taste like another. I mean, what's the point? If you want grape flavor, why not just eat some grapes? Then again, artificial grape flavor isn't exactly the same as a juicy concord grape. In fact it is quite off. It reminds me of other products that are artificially fruit flavored, that never quite lived up to their natural counterpart. Case in point (and I may get some hate mail for this but): Bubbalicious watermelon bubble gum. God that stuff was awful. Actually, I'm going to say it--all Bubbalicious bubble gum flavors were awful. Are they still in production? Well, the fact remains that Bubbalicious watermelon gum tasted nothing like watermelon. Neither did strawberry--neither do any of these chewing gums which purport to taste like some fruit or another. How unfortunate it is then, that we are all too familiar with these artificial flavors and can easily identify them, given a taste test.

On the other hand, I've always liked Grape Crush. It is a guilty pleasure of mine. Do I like a crunchy Grape Crush? I'm not sure. I know that kids would likely love grapples. The question is, do we want to train our kids to expect everything to taste like candy? I fear this would only continue to cause bad habits to form. Will I purchase them again? I might. It is a fun little gimmick and would be a cool prank to pull off on someone. Unfortunately the smell gives away the trick almost immediately.

I searched for the Bubbalicious website but it looks like there isn't one in existence. Some random online candy stores still sell it so it appears to still be in production. That's too bad. Oh, and I almost forgot. Banana was the worst. Worse than watermelon. Artificial banana flavor has to be the most disgusting thing I've ever tasted.

Here's a retro video for your viewing enjoyment: Bubbalicious commercial

Salt: A lesson in savory seasoning





A rising trend in the culinary world has brought forth a renewed interest in something we use (and sometimes overuse) everyday. Salt. I'm not talking about your everyday iodized Morton's salt. I'm sure we all grew up with that beloved image of the Morton's umbrella girl shielding herself from the rain while the salt she carries empties out on the street. While this particular salt is a staple and generally suitable for everyday use, it isn't this blog entry's focus. We're talking about a whole 'nother ball game here. Gourmet salts are on the rise and there might be some confusion as to where and when to use them.

As you peruse your grocer's shelves, you'll notice that salts are now available in just about every color of the rainbow. Look too quickly and you'll mistake them for decorative sugars. You don't want to make that mistake! Not only do they come in an assortment of colors, they are also imported from exotic locations. While seemingly gimmicky, a great example is Himalayan pink salt. At first thought, one might think, "C'mon, give me a break." The price tag too, might be a turn-off, followed by a, "...well, what would I put it on?" Don't be so quick to turn away. Himalayan pink salt claims to have various health benefits as well--with moderate use, of course.

Himalayan pink salt is an unrefined salt which derives its color from iron oxide. It has a significantly higher mineral content than that of regular table salt, including copper, iron, magnesium, calcium and potassium. It is used primarily for cooking and bath salts. Here's where the clever marketing ploy comes into play, however. Himalayan sea salt is actually harvested 300km away from the Himalayan mountain range in Punjab, Pakistan. The Himalayan foothills are farther north. Wait! I have another surprise. It seems that our own Hawaii is marketing Himalayan Sea salt as well. Last I checked, Mt. Everest was not in Hawaii. I could be wrong though. It goes beyond Hawaii though. Countries from South America, Eastern Europe and even Australia are mining pink salt and marketing it as Himalayan. If you purchased this product because you think it was harvested from the base camps of Everest or K2--you my friend, have been had. This kind of false advertising unfortunately may be a turn-off and may rid you of the temptation to buy the product. Do not misunderstand me. My intention is not to discourage. I simply would like you to take everything you read with a grain of salt. Ba-dum-bump.

Truth be told, "Himalayan" pink salt (I will henceforth refer to the Himalayan part in quotes) is still a much better alternative to refined table salt. It is decorative and makes for a pleasant presentation. Also sold in slabs, the salt is becoming increasingly popular as a way to serve food. Sushi, fruit and vegetable platters and dessert displays are enhanced with the salt flavor. Such slabs are cleaned easily and are reusable. They can withstand high temperatures and are thus also used as a method of cookware or "saltware" rather, claiming to provide optimum heat distribution. It seems like a good idea and I'm willing to splurge on a small slab to give it a try. I'll let you know how it goes. I encourage you to do the same. I'd be curious to know how it turns out.

Some other salts worth giving a try:

Fleur de Sel (literally flower of salt in french): it is grey in color and sold slightly damp. It dissolves quickly and thus should be sprinkled on food just prior to serving. It is a wonderful complement to chocolate and caramel. Favorite use of Fleur de Sel: Vosges Barcelona chocolate bar. Pricey at $6-$8 a bar, but worth every penny. Vosges chocolates can be found at Whole Foods Market, Chesapeake Wine Co., Roots Organic Market.

Hawaiian Black Lava Salt: pearl-like, nutty flavor, satin texture, slightly sulphuric aroma from lava. Suggested use: breakfast foods, poultry, seafood

Hawaiian Red Alaea Sea Salt: a specialty, mostly decorative salt with a slight iron flavor

Moorenko's Salted Caramel and Praline ice cream can be found at MOM's Organic Market at the intersection of Routes 1 and 175, Jessup. MD.

Salt Tavern: have the duck fat french fries with a nice sprinkle of salt!

Remember, recommended daily salt consumption is between 1500-2400mg per day. If you have high blood pressure, that figure should be considerably lower. Moderation is key to maintaining a healthy lifestyle while enjoying the flavor of salt.


Sunday, February 21, 2010

Poor, misunderstood mâche



Those of you who know me and have dined with me know of my penchant for mâche. I am a mâche addict. I used to drive all the way to the Hunt Valley Wegman's just to buy the stuff. Sadly, it appears they have since stopped carrying it. Apparently no one was buying it but me. Why? My belief is fear of the unknown. If you haven't tasted it, you won't buy it. Am I right? Before I continue further, some of you may be thinking, what the hell is mâche anyway? For those of you who aren't "in the know," mâche, pronounced "mosh" (you know, that crazy, violent dancing that meatheads do at rock concerts) is a soft, nutty-flavored leafy green. At nicer restaurants you may see it used as a garnish beside a dish. People, it is an edible garnish. Trust me when I say this, it tastes good!

I used to wait tables. Never in my history of "servitude," (pun wholeheartedly intended) have I seen a more obscene waste of perfectly good produce than that of mâche. Time after time, watching those beautiful green petals scraped off of plates into the trash can, simply infuriated me. Didn't your mom teach you to eat your vegetables? I found myself holding back the urge to utter to guests, "You can eat that, you know?"

Chances are, if you like most varieties of lettuce--you'll like mâche. If you don't like lettuce, just stop reading now. For that matter, go eat a twinkie or something. You don't belong here so get out! Sorry...just had to let out some of that repressed anger...where was I? Oh yes, also known as lamb's lettuce, it is high in beta carotene, vitamins A and C, low in sodium and calories and also a great source of iron, folic acid, potassium and fiber. Wow, it is healthy AND tastes good.

There is only one problem. Where does one find this mâche? My friend Darka spotted it at Trader Joe's in Columbia. Occasionally you can find it at Roots Market in Clarksville. If any of you spot the ever elusive mâche at your local grocers, please feel free to post the location here. As it is, I have decided to cultivate my own. Vive la mâche!

A simple mâche salad:

mâche greens
campari tomatoes sliced
pignioli (pine nuts)
chevre (goat cheese)
extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Further reading on mâche: "Mache: America's Next Lettuce Love?"

Pistachio encrusted lamb chops

Ok guys, I'll be honest. I never measure. It is always a little of this--a little of that and somehow everything turns out as close to perfection as possible. Call me blessed. (By the way everything tastes better if you enjoy a martini during prep time. If you'd like another, I suggest waiting until you remove the lamb from the oven. Just a suggestion. I also find that Ketal One vodka proves a greater result.) For all you "anals" or "OCDs" these are my best approximations:












1 rack of lamb (weight about 2 lbs)
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground coarse black pepper
2 cloves garlic (minced)
1 tbsp. country style dijon mustard
1/4 cup ground pistachios
1/4 cup sherry (I prefer the real stuff but cooking sherry will do the trick)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Heat medium sized sauté pan (please, not teflon coated unless you enjoy inhaling noxious chemicals) Sear the rack for two minutes each side. Remove from heat and rub with salt and pepper. Follow with minced garlic and dijon mustard. Sprinkle the rack with the pistachios--they should bind nicely to the mustard. Pour sherry into a shallow baking dish. Place the rack in the center of baking dish on center rack of oven. Heat uncovered for 20 minutes for medium-medium rare or 135 degree temperature with a meat thermometer. After removing from oven, cover tightly with a sheet of aluminum foil and let it sit for at least 10 minutes. To serve, slice lamb chops and pour any caramelized sherry and stray pistachios that may have fallen off during cooking, on top.

Serves two

Side suggestions: Herb-roasted or mashed potatoes--I like baby red bliss, or sweet potato frites with sea salt. Any steamed seasonal green vegetable with extra virgin olive oil will do, garlic and lemon is optional. Nothing too fancy. You don't want the sides to compete with the protein.

Wine pairing: If you are lucky enough to find a 100% Petit Verdot, this is my favorite pairing for this dish. Petit Verdot is typically used in Bordeaux blends but is becoming increasingly popular as a single varietal wine. It is highly tannic, which makes it an excellent complement to this rich dish. If you can't get a hold of the Petit Verdot go for another "petite"--Petite Sirah. This robust wine is bursting with jammy fruit and is sure to stain your teeth black. It is another "big" wine tough enough to stand up to the fat content of this dish.

Wine suggestions: